Friday, July 27, 2007

Re: Front Brakes

Purchased: two rebuilt front brake calipers ($100/per), front brake pads ($40/set), two front disc rotors ($60/per), two inner bearings ($10/per), two outer bearings ($9/per), two bearing seals ($4/per), one liter superblue brake fluid ($15), one jar wheel bearing grease ($7).

Rich gave me some advice on seating the inner and outer bearing shoes and seal, packing the bearings, dust-caps, etc.

Friday, July 20, 2007

Notes from the mechanic

Car stalls when hot—also difficult to restart
Hotter is harder!

Found engine running ultra lean when cold.
@ warm up—stalled. Adjusted A/F meter wiper (*)

Check valve adjustments
all valves tight zero clearance

(*) To enrichen mixture—set timing & CO.
Many air leaks in intake system!


2 valve cover gaskets
1 oil cap seal
1 oil cap O-ring
2 feet 9mm hose


@ $125/hr * 2.75 hrs
+ $16.80 (parts)
+ $1.36 (sales tax)
+ $3 (environmental surcharge)
= $364.93


Brakes are soft, unsafe. (They were worse before my recent brake work, pumping the pedal helps.)

Could be: (1) front brake lines (old rubber), (2) front calipers (have leaks), (3) air in the master cylinder from recent brake work.

Note: Haynes manual says, if air enters the master cylinder you must bleed all four wheels. Larry says, if air enters the master cylinder you must bleed the master cylinder. There are no bleed valves on the master cylinder, you have to disconnect brake lines directly from the cylinder.

Clutch cable needs adjustment.


Now I can start the car easily, hot or cold. Still stalls occasionally when hot (probably due to vacuum leaks), but much better than before. AWESOME.

Somehow between starting the brake/fuel-line work and taking it in to HPH, the tachometer decided to start working. Cool.

Rich suggests re-checking the valve-clearances in 500 miles (because the clearance was zero, adjustments will need rechecking); the speed-o-meter and odometer still do not work.

Still smells like coffee and sour milk.

Thursday, July 12, 2007

Step 4: Get a cup holder

Ways to spend five dollars:

Drive 4 blocks to the coffee shop.
Circle the block.
Park on Shotwell St.
(Two winos admire the car.)
Buy $3.25 coffee at Philz .
Tip the flirty barista $0.75.
Winos ask for $2, give them $1.
Drive 3 blocks back.
Spill coffee.
Park car.

Step 4: Get a cup holder (and clean the carpet).

Saturday, July 7, 2007

Re: Test drive (brakes working)

I flushed the brakes with ATE superblue DOT 4 brake fluid. The Haynes manual reads (ch 8.14),

"1. Bleeding the braking system is not a routine maintenance task, but is necessary if any part of the hydraulic system has been disconnected...

"2. To commence the bleeding operation, first locate the bleed nipples. The rear ones are on the inner side of the calipers...

"6. A second person is needed to operate the brake pedal at your instruction. The pedal should be depressed smartly one full stroke to the floor and allowed to return slowly. This should be repeated until no more bubbles emerge from the tube in the jar. Smart operation of the pedal ensures that the air is forced along the pipe rather than by-passed. Keep a watch on the level of fluid in the reservoir. If it gets too low it will let air into the master cylinder and then you will have to bleed all four wheels...

"8 Repeat the procedure for the left rear, left front and right front wheels, in that order..."

Adjust rear pads to 0.008" before bleeding and again after. I'm glad to have the new 10mm inside-rear adjuster retaining screws, because 4mm hex wrenches are difficult to find in the right length (to pass through the trailing-arm access hole but not hit the exhaust pipe on the other side) and because as Larry at HPH says, "brake adjusters are worth their weight in gold". Probably exaggeration, but that's why they sell rebuilt calipers w/o adjusters and I can easily see losing one as you retract the adjuster. Reinstall pad retaining springs ("anti-rattle springs"). Double check brake lines for leaks. Thanks to Neal for the smart pedal work, the brakes are bled and feel mighty good. Thanks to the guys at Workingman's Headquarters for the used tools (second set of jack stands: $15, finding the proper flare-nut wrenches in stock: $_).

(26th St, Bryant St, Precita Ave, Alabama St, Bernal Heights Blvd, Folsom St, Precita Ave, Alabama St, 26th St.)

Still AWESOME. Still stalls when the engine is hot, so a cross-town drive is difficult.

(26th St, Florida St, So Van Ness, 15th St, Divisadero St, Oak St, park, Octavia St, US 101 South, Cesar Chavez St, Alabama St, 26th St.)

Good thing, the parking brake now works. Step 2 is complete.

Friday, July 6, 2007

Re: Engine starts

I cut back two inches of the cracked plastic fuel-supply line. It was listed as a $20 part but they're no longer available and Rich at HPH says that this is the usual method, adding "the plastic hoses are normally very durable."

Turn. Squeek. Turn. Squeek. Vroom!

Step 3 is complete.