Notes from the mechanic

Car stalls when hot—also difficult to restart
Hotter is harder!

Found engine running ultra lean when cold.
@ warm up—stalled. Adjusted A/F meter wiper (*)

Check valve adjustments
all valves tight zero clearance

(*) To enrichen mixture—set timing & CO.
Many air leaks in intake system!

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2 valve cover gaskets
1 oil cap seal
1 oil cap O-ring
2 feet 9mm hose

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@ $125/hr * 2.75 hrs
+ $16.80 (parts)
+ $1.36 (sales tax)
+ $3 (environmental surcharge)
= $364.93

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Brakes are soft, unsafe. (They were worse before my recent brake work, pumping the pedal helps.)

Could be: (1) front brake lines (old rubber), (2) front calipers (have leaks), (3) air in the master cylinder from recent brake work.

Note: Haynes manual says, if air enters the master cylinder you must bleed all four wheels. Larry says, if air enters the master cylinder you must bleed the master cylinder. There are no bleed valves on the master cylinder, you have to disconnect brake lines directly from the cylinder.

Clutch cable needs adjustment.

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Now I can start the car easily, hot or cold. Still stalls occasionally when hot (probably due to vacuum leaks), but much better than before. AWESOME.

Somehow between starting the brake/fuel-line work and taking it in to HPH, the tachometer decided to start working. Cool.

Rich suggests re-checking the valve-clearances in 500 miles (because the clearance was zero, adjustments will need rechecking); the speed-o-meter and odometer still do not work.

Still smells like coffee and sour milk.